I was on on dyno today

[austrian type-R]

I?m Supercharged and now I only got a + from 5 hp (five) WTF!!! and + 25 Newtonmeter!!!

WHATS WRONG? Why I loose power above 7500rpm?
http://www.geocities.com/autitr/dyno1.jpg

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98? ITR
supecharged @ 6psi

[This message has been edited by austrian type-R (edited October 02, 2000).]

[This message has been edited by austrian type-R (edited October 02, 2000).]

[lundgren]

Well from my conversion looks like about 190 WHP, which is a little low, but not a lot. This is WHP, not crank. The lower HP band after conversion looks about 154 WHP, so that gives you 33 WHP difference.

Also at 34 degrees C, which is pretty warm, if the dyno didn't have a correction factor, that's good for 5 hp alone.


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http://www.netbsi-kc.com/integra/
http://www.netbsi-kc.com/aa/
http://www.groupbuycenter.com/

[austrian type-R]

Yes, this is a corrected dyno.

The upper band is engine hp and the lower band is wheels hp

The dynoplot says 156,6 whp. This is only 5 hp more then I get it from my first (all stock) dynorun.

I miss 40WHP. What should I do now?

Plot for my torque (Newtonmeter) www.geocities.com/autitr/dyno2.jpg

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98? ITR
supecharged @ 6psi

[lundgren]

Do you have a boost gauge? Maybe the SC belt is slipping. How much boost is it reading? Are you running an aftermarket intake? Check your timing, make sure it's at 8 or so, maybe it's really low, like 4.

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http://www.netbsi-kc.com/integra/
http://www.netbsi-kc.com/aa/
http://www.groupbuycenter.com/

[00ITR006]

I know exactly what you problem is above 7000k, When JR made there black box for the R, its fucked so to speak, Oscar knows this, and i don't know if there is going to be a fix for it.. I had the same problem along with every other type R owner..

THis is what happenens the black box is what tricks the ecu into thinking its colder right? Ok, at 7000K or 7500K the ECU dumps a shitload of fuel which we all know is called to rich.. That causes your dip in horsepower.. Things that I have done to correct this. Apexi SAFC, which i sold, because I just ordered a EFI PMS System,, which will do a shitload more than the apexi afc, You may want to check it out at www.efisystems.com... As for only getting a 156whp,, thats just impossible, unless you charger is really installed wrong, Check and make sure they put a blower on under the intake manifold J/K..... Here's my first dyno 00ITR with supercharger 4psi,, 110+ degrees...(why 4psi, don't ask me, maybe cuz the belts or charger need to be broken in, or maybe cuz it was hot as shit, 187whp, 140tq. i'm now hitting 5-5.5psi, with 2K on the charger... I will Dyno again in a month with the PMS (my tuner said he should be able to get me 210WHP easily,( HAHA, We will see about that,) i don't believe nothing till i see it on paper.

*notice drop in HP, due to RICH CONDITIONS, MY TUNER VERIFIED THIS WITH OSCAR AFTER TWO HOURS ON THE PHONE WITH HIM..

[austrian type-R]

lundgren: I don?t think that my belt is slipping b/c on WOT my boost gauge shows me 6psi on all rpm?s. Timing is at stock b/c I have the BTC unit. Yes I have an K&N ram air filter

00ITR006: What do you mean "make sure they put a blower on under the intake manifold J/K"?

I have set my BTC only 4 clicks right from all way left (I think it?s retarding 0,4 degrees per pound of boost) I get no detonation even when the knob is all way to the left side (that means the BTC is off) IS that the reason of 98 octane??????


[This message has been edited by austrian type-R (edited October 02, 2000).]

[00ITR006]

Correct like i said before, the ECU is Running real rich at those RPMS, because of JR Black box, thats why I ordered the PMS system, so i can adjust fuel up in those RPMs,

I was joking about the Blower Australian R.

I'm also running stock timing with btm set at 1/1, and i also can run it at zero. Even with the btm at 1/1, i get a small detonation at partial throttle as i go out of vaccum to boost, i just had to adjust my driving to compensate. I'll let everyone know how the PMS works out, and some dynos too.

Australian R did you install the charger yourself???? I think its impossible for you to get less horsepower than stock unless something was overlooked, i.e no belt, or something??? Keep us informed, and i'll do the same

[austrian type-R]

random: Good idea but this I asked allready on the boards and I got no clear answers!

00ITR006: I?m not Australian! I?m from AUSTRIA (Europe) and we have no kangoroos LOLOLOL
When I was from Australia my English would be better at all!

The PMS sounds good but it is to expensive b/c I waste all my money on the JRSC stuff.

What do you think of a FIELD SFC-VTEC controller. I can adjust my fuel +/- 30% in 1000rpm?s steps.

Shawn at JR told me to try it with a wide band O2 sensor and then to adjust the JR fuel regulator or to remove the relay. But I think I can add more horses with a fuel controller.

Yes I installed the blower AND the belt with my friend (mechanic on Toyota) and me.


hp and torque (Newtonmeter) plot http://www.geocities.com/autitr/dyno2.jpg

[98 ITR-SC]

Actually the stock ITR ecu is what causes the dip in power up high in the rpm band. The stock ecu runs really rich. This is straight outa Oscars mouth. I had a rather lengthy discussion with him at Nopi.
later
scott
98 ITR supercharged

[randomwalk101]

Austrian TypeR: Wow, you didn't get any engine ping at stock timing (16 BTDC) and no timing retard w/ JR BTC? Sounds like you can just run the car at stock timing without the BTC then...or of course, you can increase your timing beyond 16 and adjust the BTC to retard it accordingly.